Marlborough Bra

Bra-A-Week Roundup for August

Hello everyone
Ever since my blog went dead (annoying but my own mistake) I thought long and hard about rewriting at least the last post and I finally decided to take the task at hand. So here we go. This is my bra roundup for August.
August means Braugust 2018. During braugust (and not for braugust I might add) I bought a massive amount of bra supplies from all over and I splurged on three four Orange Lingerie patterns. I fell in love with bramaking again. Also I wrote a short introduction for BERNINA on bramaking.

A Nude Bra for week 32

Since I made a trial version for the Classic Bra by Beverly Johnson  (you can read about it on the BERNINA blog here) I already knew which alterations I had to make for the next one. This bra was made out of desperation and sheer practicality. I needed a nude bra that would not show under white slightly sheer garments like a blouse. 
For the cups I used bra foam by Emerald Erin and Duoplex from Bodil’s Wear. The brigde and the cradle were again made of Duoplex lined with nude bra lining. For the back band I chose a ivory powernet by Spitzentraum. I finished the neckline with golden FOE and the back closure was e recycled one from one of my old bras.
For once the use of a slightly stretchy material to cover the cups would have been a dream but alas I had none in nude. Apart from this the bra is comfy and practical – just as I envisioned it.

A scuba Marlborough Bra for week 33

Because I only worked with scuba once before I decided it was time to try out this fabric for bramaking. The scuba is from Spitzentraum although currently they are out of stock. I made a size 40D. I used strong band elastic with a width of ¾”. The underarm elastics I used were ½”. Since I did not have strap elastic in black (so stupid I have soooo many colors but of course never the right one) so I made white straps instead. 
For future Marlboroughs (and there will definitely be more) I took a 1” (2.5cm) wedge out of the side. This will pull more on the cups which in turn makes them fit as they should.
As for the scuba: I am completely in love with this fabric for bramaking. You only need to make ‘one layer’ (as opposed to foam) and it’s definitely more modest than a lacy bra.

A black Willow Bra for week 34

Next I made a Willow Bra. I made the Willow once before and had already made the necessary adjustments for my bigger bust (in case you need to adjust your cups you can check out the designer’s tutorial here). I made a size XL with a full bust adjustment for a D Cup.
I used shiny lycra fabric from Spitzentraum. In fact everything I used for this bra is from Spitzentraum. I did not add a back closure but instead cut the back piece out on the fold (I knew from the previous one that it would fit me). I have to pull the bralette over my head to wear it but I prefer having no back closures for a bralette because I only wear them on lazy Sundays and at night.
I noticed that after the FBA on this bra the seam should additionally be moved more to the centre. So I will already make these changes to the pattern for the next one. 
I paired the Willow with a pair of matching panties. In hindsight I should have made two, because they look quite nice and feel comfy.

A lacy Berkeley Bra for week 35

For the Berkeley Bra I made a straight size 40D because I already knew from the Marlborough Bra that this size would probably fit me. I used stretch mesh, stretch lace, strap elastic and underwires (Prym E115) from Spitzentraum. The nude lining is from studiocostura, the neckline band from rotkaehlchen and the braband from sewy. As you can see I get my bra stuff all over the place.
Sewing this bra was surprisingly easy. I expected the lace and the fine lining to misbehave but it all was totally fine. The bridge on this bra is muuuuuch too wide for me so I took a wedge out of the middle of about ½” (12mm). This fixed this issue for me.
The straps of this bra are digging into my armpits like crazy so I did a little research and I noticed a few people having this same problem. For future editions I will need to move these more to the centre (about ½”, 12mm and in bramaking that is quite a lot).
I sewed two pairs of panties with a pink cotton spandex and some leftover lace to go with this bra.

It is not finished on this picture yet…

I hope I can salvage part of my previous heartpleat blog in the weeks to come. Expect this post to move… but I promise you, you will always find it again.
Happy Sewing

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meet the author

Hi! My name is Nadine and I’ve been sewing my own clothes since 2017. I love making underwear – especially bras. In my spare time I enjoy spending time with my family and friends, cooking and reading!

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