I made my first ever pair of pants and they were JEANS! This was absolutely necessary because my last pair of jeans ripped about three weeks ago. Which meant I only had one pair of pants left (red burgundy chinos). And what’s more they even turned out quite good thanks to the amazing tutorial over on Closet Case Patterns (check it out here).
After cutting out the same pantleg twice (yes this happened) and I could not reorder the original fabric (WTF) and bought myself some new jeans fabric yesterday. This means I made those jeans all in one day and it took me only about eight hours.
About the Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns
Most of you out there already know the pattern well. There is a version A whit a stovepipe leg and lower waist and a highwaist skinny version B. Since I like skinny jeans but not so much the highwaist waistline I chose to combine those two at the hips. I bought the paper pattern but in hindsight I should have chosen the pdf version. This would have given me better ways to combine those two versions and make alterations (I hate tracing patterns so usually I cut them out). I chose a size 18 graded to a 16 at the waist. If you do this, remember to alter the corresponding pieces (pockets, waistbands, etc.) as well. I am really proud of myself that – after making the stupid pantleg mistake – I thought of transferring the alterations.
About the fabric
There ist not much to say about the fabric. I bought it at a fabric outlet. It’s quite thin and it’s meant to be a wearable muslin. It has (as the pattern requests) a little stretch to it.
About the construction
Thanks to the tutorial I did not have much difficulty assembling the jeans. Even installing the zipper was no problem at all. What I had my issues with, was the topstitching. Somehow I could not figure out how to always position my needle the same way while topstitching so that those two lines would always have the same distance between them throughout the jeans. It varies as you will see in the pictures.
Also the thing with the bartacking is something I have to practice. Something seemed do be off with the thread tension of my machine. Sometimes the jeansthread would be slightly visible on the underside and viceversa. I will have to do some research as to how to avoid this particular problem.
For the waistband I should have ironed the interfacing to the self fabric instead of the lining which would have prevented a lot of puckering because of the stretchiness of the fabric.
Concerning the fit
First of, the fit of my first pair of pants is not too shabby. The waist is too wide – I could take out about two inches I think. So for my next pair I will grade to a size 14 at the waist (and all the corresponding pieces) to avoid the gaping at the back.
Also, even though I chose version B, the legs or the lower legs to be more specific were definitely not slim on me. I had to narrow them significantly. Right now I am not sure how to transfer these changes to the pattern. I think I will have to do some research on that topic before I make any alterations. For this pair, I serged on the lines that I drew in (see picture).
But long story short. I love this pattern and I will be making more Gingers. There is something really fulfilling about making your own pair of pants that fit just the right way. And not I am done (eight hours later) I am wondering how on earth some retailers can afford to sell a pair of jeans for 30 Francs (in Switzerland. The price in the EU would be around 15 Euros)??!!
Anyway, the fabric for my next pair is already ordered…