I finally did it! I’ve sewn my bomber jacket of dreams. But let’s start at the beginning. Somewhere over the last year I have become fascinated with octopuses (yes, that is actually the correct plural, since the word does not derive from latin but from greek). Whenever I see a print with an octopus on it I become obsessed. Sadly my rational side of the brain often interferes with an impulse buy and I still can’t get over the fact that I was not able to get some of that gorgeous Cotton & Steel knit fabric in my prefered colorway.

Anyway, it became clear to me that I desperately needed a bomber jacket with octopuses on it. But it was the Stitch Sister’s vlog about their bomber jackets that gave me the final push. I carefully screened for all the bomber jacket patterns out there (I should have just checked The Fold Line) and I decided to make the Bobbi Bomber jacket by StyleArc. What drew me to this pattern were the sleevepocket and the stripes on the sleeves. That seemed like a nice feature.

I got the faux pink suede from buttinette.ch and the burgundy one from stoffehemmers.de. I had to preorder the zippers at my local fabric shop since they had to be specially made (?). The patches I got from etsy and the color thread I used is Gütermann No 662.

If you know StyleArc patterns you also know that they are pretty scarce on actual instructions so I thought I’d write a tutorial with pictures for you to help you along the way. I hope it’ll help.

Bobbi Bomber 1
I cut out the markings of the welt pocket so I can easily transfer the markings on point to the main fabric.
Bobbi Bomber 2
Next you iron the interfacing to the welt pieces and fold them in half lengthwise.
Bobbi Bomber 3
This is how the welt pieces should look now.
Bobbi Bomber 4
Position the pocket piece on top of the markings. The bag will face towards the front.
Bobbi Bomber 5
Stitch the on the markings with a reduced stitch lengts (I used 1.5 on my Bernina). Cut the welt opening open but stop short just at the ends. Clip towards the corners.
Bobbi Bomber 6
Turn the bag piece to the wrong side of the main fabric and press.
Bobbi Bomber 7
Position the welt on top of the bag on the wrong side of the main fabric.
Bobbi Bomber 8
Topstitch the three edges (of the welt) from the right side.
Bobbi Bomber 9
I used pinking sheers to finish the raw edges of the welt.
Bobbi Bomber 10
Attach other bag piece and stitch around the seams.
Bobbi Bomber 10
Turn to the right side again and topstitch the fourth (top) edge. Repeat on the other side.
Bobbi Bomber 11
Sew together the left sleeve but leave the part between the markings open for the zipper. Press.
Now it’s time to insert the sleeve zipper. With the right side of the tape facing down start attaching the zipper to one side of opening’s seam allowance.
Bobbi Bomber 12
Repeat for the other side of the opening’s seam allowance. This is what it should look like.
Bobbi Bomber 13
Sew the bag pieces to the zipper tape in a way that you will not have any raw edges inside the little bag.
Bobbi Bomber 14
Close the seams of your bag. I attached part of the side to the seam allowance on the other side of the burgundy stripe so it would not move around in my sleeve and will look less bulky.
Bobbi Bomber 14
Voilà! This is what it looks like from the right side.
Bobbi Bomber 15
Next I moved on to my favorite… Octopus!!!!!!
Bobbi Bomber 17
Now it’s time to sew in the sleeves. It did this on the flat (contrary to the instructions) like a regular raglan. And then I closed the side seam all in one go. Sew the lining together but leave a small opening at one sleeve seem open (8″). We’ll need this later to bag out the jacket.
Bobbi Bomber 17
This will become the zip guard. With the right sides together stich the front top and bottom of the guard. Press, turn it right side out.
Bobbi Bomber 18
Press the two tip tapes in half.
Bobbi Bomber 19
Close the top and the bottom of the folded zip tape and turn it inside out.
Bobbi Bomber 20
Time to sew on the collar. Fold the ribbing in half (right sides out) pin it on your neckline (make sure to stretch the collar evenly). Stitch, preferably with a stretch stitch.
Bobbi Bomber 21
A view from the right and the wrong side.
Bobbi Bomber 22
Folded in half with right sides together, close your cuffs.
Bobbi Bomber 22
Turn your cuffs right side out and fold them in half. Pin them to your sleeves and stitch with a stretch stitch. Make sure to distribute the fabric of the cuff evenly around the opening.
Bobbi Bomber 23
With right sides together attach one (!) side of the ribbing to the front. You will be closing the seam by attaching the lining to the other edge of the ribbing.
Bobbi Bomber 24
Time to attach the zipper to the zip tapes.
Bobbi Bomber 25
This is where I got sloppy. Instead of first basting everything to the jacket I just sewed on both tapes and the guard in one go. All I can do now is roll my eyes because I had to take up the seam ripper after because the zipper did not match up exactly. Also do not fold over the ribbing yet it will be tougher to sew in the lining later
Bobbi Bomber 26
This is a picture of my first try.
Bobbi Bomber 27
And this is after the third (yes) go. Finally ok.
Bobbi Bomber 28
… sewing in the label of course!
Bobbi Bomber 29
Time to attach the lining to the main fabric all the way around!
Bobbi Bomber 30
Closeup of my unfinished seams.
Bobbi Bomber 31
Now let’s get to the bagging out. This is a part I do not yet understand why it works. I know how to do it but the logic behind it still eludes me. Place your jacket in front of you the lining to the one side the main fabric to the other. Move the sleeves out of the way.
Bobbi Bomber 32
To take the sleeves (careful not to twist them) and fold over the part of the lining where the cuffs will be attached to the right side (check picture) then insert it into the main sleeve with the cuff facing inward.
Bobbi Bomber 33
Then stitch the folded over part to the main sleeve.
Bobbi Bomber 34
Find the opening in the sleeve of the lining and pull the whole jacket through.
Bobbi Bomber 34
After you did this. Close the the seam you just pulled your jacket through! I did it by machine but you could easily do this by hand to make the stitches invisible.
Bobbi Bomber 35
A nice little neckline don’t you think?
Bobbi Bomber 35
And you’re done!

 

I did not topstitch the neckline and the front for fear of distorting the fabric too much. I was lucky to have a walking foot at hand with all these layers and textures.

The jacket is a little long for my liking (3-4cm shorther would have been perfect). The fit is superb (I made a straight size 14) with no adjustments.

And now tata some pictures of me wearing the jacket in Venice. Yes, Venice…. Looove.

Some Bobbi Bomber Jacket action on the Rialto bridge…
And from the back looking on the Canale Grande.
… and ok in front of the sweets store. But you will never guess what I found!
…tadaaaa

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