The M7623 Shirtdress #partialmatch

What can I say, that dress really annoyed me, but in the end it was worth it.

About the McCalls 7623

I made a size 18 and graded to a size 20 around the hips. Apart from that I made no changes to the Dress (not even at the shoulders). I chose view B, because it was long sleeved (it’s winter) and I loved the style of it. The pattern has different cup sizes which I love. Usually (in dressmaking mind you) I fall between a B and a C Cup, so I mostly can get away without doing any bust adjustments. But having separate cup sizes helps just so much with the overall fit. I chose a C for this pattern.

About the fabric

I chose a 100% cotton flannel fabric with a black and blue gingham from a etsy-shop called Pineapples and Poppies. The fabric feels amazing and I absolutely love it.

About the construction

Sewing the darts and side seams was easy and the instructions were fairly clear. So I’ll skip these parts and head straight to the wonky bits. I topstitched the yoke seams because I like the look of it, but in hindsight I should have stitched closer to the actual seam.

I have never sewn cuffs before and they turned out ok. I realise now, that I should have read the instructions more carefully, because when sewing on the cuff part I should have ‘folded under’ the continuous lap bit so it would stay hidden… Now it’s not. Not a deal breaker but still I am annoyed with myself for not doing it correctly.
Also the pattern matching was a disaster. I took so much time to match everything before cutting, still the waistband hits the skirt in a weird way. It probably would have turned out better if I hadn’t tried at all. I really wanted to throw the thing in a corner and yelling ‘think about what you’ve done you stupid thing!’
Add to that: When I topstitched the waistband to the skirt part at the back I got two puckers. Am thinking about taking it apart to fix it and sewing it by hand as recommended.
While attaching the front band I noticed, that for some ominous reason that one (only one, even though the bands matched perfectly) would not match the pattern on the skirt part. WHAT???! So I had to decide which band part would be the one with the buttonholes and therefore visible: I had one, that matched the top nicely, but not the skirt one the other matched ‘pretty well’ all over but not as nicely on the top part as the other band.

You notice those two devils perfectly…

Can you see what I mean with the front bands?
I thought the collar would be hard to make since I never made one, but it was surprisingly easy and it turned out great (really I am surprised). Also I noticed the instructions did not mention anything about closing the front part of the collar bit, so I just winged it – was totally fine.

With the hem finished it was time to sew on the butto… Wait, I forgot to buy buttons! Making a shirtdress and forgetting to buy buttons???!!! I ran to the sewing shop only to find out (silly me) that even normal shirtbuttons are crazy expensive. This is why I recycled some old buttons from my boyfriends Shirts that are just the perfect shade of blue. Sadly I had only eight of those and I needed at least three more (2 for the cuffs, 1 for the collar). I just chose three black ones I still had and hoped that no one would ever notice. Making the buttonholes was surprisingly easy with the automatic buttonhole foot that came with my machine.

All in all, the finished dress is incredibly well fitted and (because of the cotton flannel) super cozy. I never would have thought, that I could actually do it and end up with something that I love to wear. For future makes I would probably take out a bit of with in the back (about half an inch or 1 cm).



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meet the author

Hi! My name is Nadine and I’ve been sewing my own clothes since 2017. I love making underwear – especially bras. In my spare time I enjoy spending time with my family and friends, cooking and reading!

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