Abi JumpsuitLast week my inbox pinged and I got a glance at the newest release from SMYLY patterns. SMYLY stands for sewing makes you love yourself. For me personally sewing makes me love myself a little more and that’s good enough. Anyway, the new pattern was a jumpsuit. I was pondering the idea to make a jumpsuit for a while but I just never felt the urge to make this or that pattern… The Abi is named after Abi from the Craftypinup (if you are into sewing and not following her you must live behind the moon or something inexplicable must have happened to you). The two lovely ladies from SMYLY designed the Abi to be an extension of the Samantha dress, that was released just a few months prior together with the first issue of SMYLY magazine.
The Abi is a faux wrap jumpsuit with a threequarterlength or short sleeve option. Also you can make the trouser part either with a wide leg or a tapered one (with pleats at the waist). I chose to make the wide legged version in a culottes length (there is also a full length and a short version, so much possibilities you guys!).
Now, the fabric for this project I ordered just one or two weeks ago on a whim. Usually when I buy a fabric I get an instant idea about what to make with it, otherwise I won’t buy it (my boyfriend disagrees with this thesis. In his opinion I constantly buy fabric without knowing what to to with it. That’s just not the truth and I am shouting this out to the world in the hopes that it will somehow convince him, haha). I got this lovely spandex jersey from a Swiss online store that sells mostly lingerie making supplies (go figure). They still have it in stock! I know this, because I – of course – did not have enough fabric to cut this out from the fabric I already had.
For cutting I used my newly acquired and lovely light blue cutting mat. I did not even try to pattern match it since I figured out that I was cutting it pretty close fabric wise… (pun intended). I cut a straight size 16 without any (!) adjustments because I hoped that the knit fabric would forgive a lack of a FBA…
Constructing it was really very easy. Partly because the instructions are quite detailed and partly because I have sewn quite a lot of pj’s and knit shirts and I really got the hang of it.
Because of this I was surprised that the neckbands are not even the slightest bit shorter than the neckline. Usually in a shirt you would make the neckbands shorter so they lie flat against the body. Still, with this pattern the neckband was exactly the length of the neckline and the neckline stayed completely flat after ironing. So don’t worry about this.
While sewing it together I noticed that the tie belt would not be attached to the jumpsuit in any way and at first I was pretty unsure about this. Buuuuut this means you get to wear any belt over this jumpsuit and that’s kind of amazing. I sewed the tie belt together in a diffrent manner than the instructions suggested by making a full tube and turning it inside out. It worked just fine. I ironed the ends together with fusetape and hand stitched over it to give it a neat and invisible finish.
The instructions (or the way I read the illustration) suggested that the bodice pieces overlap starting at the dartline when in fact there is a full overlap at the front. Maybe the illustrations were not adjusted after the amount the bodice wraps over was increased by Athina and Hattie…. (?).
However, after I figured this out and attached the bodice to the trouser part it was time to test the fit. I am only 5 ft 5in tall (165cm, actually 164 because I bribed the guy that had to measure me for my ID with a lovely and overwhelming smile) so naturally I had to shorten the legs a bit (by 8cm) and the front trouser part (by 4cm). Otherwise it is spot on and feels like secret pajamas. But I think because of the fabric choice I have to take great care with styling it or it will actually look like pajamas. What I am most surprised about with this pattern is that wide legs culottes look actually kind of decent on me… Who would have thought? And a top that wraps? I only just figured that one out for my #sewtogetherforsummer dress.
I hemmed the open seams with my trusted covermachine after letting it hang over night and I was done!
For the future I think I would make to pockets different (slash pockets) or omit them completely. Apart from trousers I am not really a fan of pockets. Maybe this would be a good idea for a SMYLY issue? ‘How to hack pockets to your liking?’ I don’t get the hype about this… also my tie belt stretched out pretty quickly and it seemed to drop slightly – perhaps you’d need a more stable knit for it to work or interface it… When I was wearing it to a bluesfestival in our city (literally happing just outside our building) I noticed some people giving me the sideeye… so maybe it actually looks like pj’s to others??? Still unsure but I loved wearing it!